“And now
for some dictation.”
The room
lets out a collective, almost imperceptible groan of frustration. Fingers drum
the tables, anxious knees jiggle out a rapid drumbeat as everyone obsessively
checks the time. Finally, five minutes late, we are let out of class.
We all bolt
to our separate tasks – Louise to close her window, Kelly to buy snacks. I make
a beeline for the main gate, where our grand taxi is supposed to be waiting for
us. We’re all tense and aware of the ticking clock over our heads – if we miss
the 5:40 train, we’ll be stuck in Meknes until the next train. At 1 AM.
The taxi
ride is uneventful until the last 15 minutes or so. We call ahead – the others
have bought the train tickets, so if we don’t make it we’re also out three
tickets. On the way we hit traffic, as well as every possible fucking red light on the way. Against all
odds we make it to the train station, where Paul stands waiting. We tore out of
the taxi like bats out of hell, shouting our thanks over our shoulders. We sprint
through the train station and down the stairs, where officials are gesturing
for us to hurry the hell up. At this point I’m laughing hysterically, at the
situation and our own audacity in thinking we could cheat the system. Clambering
aboard at the last minute, we took a moment to savor the triumph of making the
train.
The train
ride was thereafter fairly uneventful, and we got into Tangier at 9:30, far
earlier than expected. I had called ahead and spoke to the Hotel Mamura, so
they were expecting us. The train station in Tangier was beautiful, reminiscent
of Spain more than anywhere else. As Paul commented, it was easy to see why
part of the Bourne movies was filmed there. Outside the station, with a
carnival occurring nearby, we were fortunate in finding two taxis to take us to
our hotel. The driver of my taxi spoke Spanish, French, English, and Arabic,
and gave us his phone number to use during the weekend after showing us the way
to our hotel.
We walked
down the beach street after stowing our stuff, and ate at one of the
restaurants/cafés/beach clubs. It was quite delicious, but since there were
eight of us the service took a long time. In fact, everywhere we went to sit
down and eat proved the same.
The next
day, we had breakfast at a nearby café and went walkabout through the medina.
Compared to Fes, the medina in Tangier is a dream. Most, if not all, vendors
spoke Spanish and English, and the streets were wider and cleaner. The vendors
weren’t as pushy as the ones in Fes, and were in general pretty friendly. I was
able to get most of my Christmas shopping done, though it did deal some heavy
damage to my bank account. We found our way to the Kasbah and looked out across
the water. It was too hazy to see Spain, but we had a gorgeous view nonetheless.
We explored a bit, but were called back when an official told us we were
standing in a condemned building that was in the process of falling into the
ocean, and he recommended that we get to safer ground. Nearby was the Salon
Bleu, where we had lunch on the roof and had fun with a street cat that had
managed its way up the spiral staircase to look at us with big eyes.
After
eating we made our way back to the hotel, where we changed into swimsuits to go
to the beach. The beach was walking distance, and we walked past a few camels
before finding a place we felt comfortable in. There were some other women
around, and the atmosphere was far removed from that of Casablanca. There was
even a lifeguard, who asked us in a mixture of Spanish and French if we could
swim, and reassuring us that he and his surfboard would save us if not.
The water
was freezing. Which makes sense, given the season, and the Atlantic is always
cold. We got used to it quickly, and spent a good three or four hours on the
beach. Halcyon and I combed the beach, and were amazingly successful. In fact,
a random Moroccan dude saw us collecting shells and gathered some to give to
us. Completely random, but he didn’t harass us at all, and I was thankful for
that. I collected quite a few pieces of sea glass to bring home.
After the
beach, we recollected ourselves once again to go out, this time to the 555
Beach Club. We had dinner there, which was made a little hectic by the
Barcelona vs. Real Madrid game. The food was good, though, and the club was
interesting. The floor lit up, and the bass was loud enough that you could feel
it in your sternum.
The next
morning, we called up the taxi driver and went out on a winding tour that ended
in the Hercules Caves. First, however, we had to drive past the place where the
Atlantic and Mediterranean meet, and past several palaces owned and (rarely)
inhabited by various princes, Kuwaiti, Saudi, and other. One Saudi prince, our
Spanish-speaking taxi driver informed us, had his own private plane to take him
between Tangier and a small town on the southern coast of Spain, I believe
Maravilla or Málaga. The plane apparently has a pool inside it. No big.
The
Hercules Caves were beautiful, and we took a lot of pictures there and
clambered over a lot of rocks. Thereafter we had the taxi drivers take us to
the Gran Café de Paris, where we ALMOST had coffee and tea in the famous café. Instead,
we went back down to the Grand Circle and had lunch. Paul and I were prepared to
stop at the burger place, but the others travelled some twenty feet further to
get some Moroccan food. I must say, I stand by my choice. I had a cheeseburger
with egg on top of it, and watched the guy make it in front of my very eyes. He
mixed onions in with the egg, and conversed with me in Spanish all the while.
It was wonderful.
Then we
made our way to the train station, where we spent a couple hours chilling
before catching the train. Some coffee and ice cream put everyone in a good
mood, and we ran into some other kids from school. They were just returning
from Spain, and happened to be catching the same train as us.
The train
ride home was a bit confusing, because we had to change trains halfway through
but didn’t know the train stop name, and got separated on the first leg of the
journey. Maggie, Paul, and I wound up with the kids returning from Spain, and
reunited with our travel buddies on the second leg of the journey, where we
switched from second class to first class (air conditioning is a beautiful
thing, people. Treasure it). We got off the train and had some quick chawarma
in Meknes before taking a couple of taxis home.
This is a
very bare-bones description of the weekend, and I could go on for hours about
how much fun Tangier was. Now I’m psyched for our break in October, when I’ll
be traveling to Granada and have even more opportunities to speak Spanish. So
far, this semester is passing far too quickly, and I don’t know if we’ll have
enough time for all of the awesome things we want to do. One way or another, it’s
going to be a grand adventure.
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